Showing posts with label Beans. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Beans. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Coaching for April

Spring is SO ON!
 The Test Garden is nearly planted for the warm weather, the poppy field is blooming and we're positively drunk with Spring around here.
Plus, the bees are extra busy which is so YAY!
So this coaching update is ALL SPRING ALL THE TIME with a Spring Must Do section to lead us off and updates on all of your warm weather crops.
Spring Must-Dos
#1 MUST DO: Soil Prep
If I catch you skipping this step, I will spank your buns with my favorite trowel. And not just because that trowel is perfect for spanking, but because your soil needs you right now!

I know that all you want to do is race out to that garden and start slamming plants in the ground. I DO, TOO. But resist the urge to skip prepping your soil because this is the #1 way to make sure that you will get the healthiest, most productive, most GIANT FRUIT PRODUCING crops this warm weather season.
#2 MUST DO: Garden prep
Drag out those garden structures (bean trellises, tomato cages, cucumber and melon fencing, etc) and make sure they're in good order, make sure you're stocked with good organic fertilizer like worm castings or storebought organic fertilizer and get those garden tools working.
#3 Must do: Plant. Finally.
Plant to plan - If you already have a crop rotation plan in place, you're awesome. Follow it.

If not, plant this year's crops somewhere new - So, if you had tomatoes in one spot last year, don't plant tomatoes (or any plant from the nightshade family) there this year. Even better would be to avoid planting anything from that family in that spot for the next 3-5 years, but we're reasonable. Keep track of where you plant what so that next year this is an easier process. 

#4 BONUS: Record your glory
This is a bonus in the truest sense of the word because recording and tracking your harvests throughout the season rewards you in a billion ways. Or, maybe a hundred. Or ten. Whatever - it's more than one.

Like, you'll know how long it takes you to go through your soil amendments, what crops are worth growing vs buying locally, how much of a yield you can expect from each crop and - the best bonus ever - the value of the crops you're growing.

For instance - I know that I got 240 pounds of produce out of the warm weather Test Garden (which included 107 pounds of tomatoes) at a value of $658.12.

Do you know what your garden did last summer? You could.

Make a copy of this free online spreadsheet and get started tracking your harvests this year and see if you don't love it. 

Beans (Fabaceae)

Now: Grabbing those lines
Next: CLIMBING TO THE SKY AND BEYOND
  
To do: Dust the area around the plants with diotomaceaous earth so that critters don't chew the stems to nubs.
Some varieties we like:
Rattlesnake pole beans: Good fresh as string beans or whole beans, frozen or as dried beans. Plus - purple speckles! Cuteness!
Fortex pole beans: Our standby pole bean that stays tender and slim in its pod for way longer than other pole beans we've tried (like Blue Lake and Kentucky Wonder) that get huge and fat and tough. Plus the seed is wicked easy to save and grow again next year.
Silver Cloud Cannellini bush beans: This was an experiment last year that we thought we'd tired of until we had some of these dried beans over the winter and then HOLY MUTHER OF BEANS THESE ARE AWESOME and the big jar of beans from our summer harvests disappeared. So, we're growing them again. For more awesomeness. Also good as a fresh shelled bean - fun.


Blue Coco beans
  



Now: Sow your new crops

Next:
 Keep your eye to the soil for germination

To do: Keep that soil mo-ist.
Carrots, especially, take FOREVER to germinate and they need to stay evenly mo-ist in the soil as they're getting ready FINALLY ALREADY to germinate. So, for the 20 or so days while they're lingering in the soil being big fat teases, make sure their soil doesn't dry out. Otherwise, they'll just never appear and you'll be all BOO. 

Try covering your carrot growing space with cardboard (write your sowing date on the cardboard and the date 20 days after that date so that you know when to remove the cardboard) after sowing and watering in the seeds so that the soil can stay nice and mo-ist while the seeds germinate.
Here are a couple that we like:
Miami F1 Hybrid: Super sweet, consistently cylindrical with feathery strong tops and good storage qualities. As though any will make it to storage...pfffffffffffft.
Romance: Well, who doesn't need more romance in their lives, right? Kinda seems odd to find that in a carrot, but who are we to judge? Oh right, we're totally judging. These are supposed to "glow" orange and be perfectly sweet and glorious at 6 inches. Que romantic.
RIGHTEOUS (Miami F1) CARROT!

Cucumbers (Cucurbitaceae)


Now: True leaves (the first ones that look like real cucumber leaves. They'll have little serrated edges.)
 
Next: Transplanting into the garden or putting on their first tendrils
 
To do:  Sprinkle some diotomaceous earth around these guys to keep the nibblers at bay. Plant some nasturtium nearby for cucumber beetle repelling action.

We're always growing:
Lemon: These guys may not look like the cucumbers you're used to seeing at the store, but OH are they tasty. Nice mild and sweet flavor great for eating fresh, adding to gin cocktails (seasonal cocktails!) or pickling. 
National Pickling: This is our favorite variety of cucumber for pickling as gherkins (pick them when they're the size of your thumb) or whole dills when we find big ones hiding in the plants. SNEAKY HIDERS! They're back! 

Early spring greens (Asteraceae)


Now: They're germinating, alright.

Next: They'll start crowding up.

To do: Keep that soil mo-ist and thin them to 1 plant every 2-3". If you're growing a succession crop (a row every few weeks for greens that go on and on), sow a new row this week while you're thinning the row from two weeks ago. 

Greens we love:
Rocky Top Mix: We have a block of this in the Test Garden growing between the beans and below the trellis. When the sun starts to get hot, the beans will climb the trellis and shade the lettuce area just in time to cool the space and let the lettuce grow into summer. And because we can't get enough of spring greens, we usually plant a container or two that can be moved to the dinner table when it's ready for salads.
Box of salad greens nearly ready for dinner

Herbs & FlowersHerbsandFlowers
Cilantro (Apiaceae)
Has your cilantro germinated yet? If so, sow a new row so that you get a successive crop. 

Did you plant it from a seedling? Harvest it often (leaving the center leaves and stalks alone to continue growing) so that it doesn't go to flower (bolt) right a-fricken'-way.


Nasturtium (Tropaeolaceae)
It's time again for ALL NASTURTIUM ALL THE TIME until first frost that's waaaaaaaaaaaaaay off in, like, December or something. 

Grow the easiest starting, fastest growing, best cut flower making, best cucumber beetle repelling crop of all time (in NorCal anyway) in your garden this year. 

Just get your hands on some nasturtium seed and go nuts. Plant it around your cucurbitaceae crops (cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkins) to keep the stupid cucumber beetles (don't be fooled - these are NOT green ladybugs) away and you're set.

Marigolds (Tagetes patula)
These guys are your best defense against vegetable loving pests. Sow seed anywhere and everywhere and then, if you're not a big fan of their flowers (like yours truly), just appreciate the fact that they're keeping your garden safe all summer long with very little (aka NONE) attention. Plus - their petals can be added to salad, compound butters and all kinds of dishes to fancy them right up.
Nasturtium galore shading the roots of the Concord grapes

Onions (Amaryllidaceae)

 Now: Harvesting as bunching onions
Next: Harvesting as bulb onions

To do: If you can't possibly wait until your onions form full bulbs, you can harvest now as bunching onions. Just pull, rinse and enjoy. Or don't rinse - be a daredevil like that, you hippie.
Fertilize with a nitrogen fertilizer or worm casting tea every couple weeks until you see the actual onion-y looking bulb start to push its way through the surface of the soil. 
To harvest as full bulbs, feel the neck of the bulb (where the green tops and round bottoms join up) for a soft-ish spot. Squeeze here and, if it's bendy, bend the tops over. This will dry them out and then you can harvest the full bulbs when the tops are fully dry. 
Red baron onions

Peppers (Solanaceae)

Now: Getting settled in the soil
Next: Putting on a little height

To do: Make sure they're caged or netted and getting infrequent but deep watering (we like 30 mins, 3 days/week unless it rains).
Keep some good organic fertilizer or worm castings handy so that when they start to set flowers, you can give them a side dressing of fertilizer so that they have the food to make more flowers and then FRUIT.
How to side dress: Dig a shallow trench near the plant's base (but not too close - you don't want to damage the roots or main stem), add the recommended amount (per the bag) of fertilizer, cover with soil and water in well.
Peppers we love to grow:
Magnum Habanero:  It's orange and hot and makes the crazy best margaritas ever. Grow it you love and hate yourself.
Purple Jalapeno: Purple jalapenos in salsa is a nice way to change up an old favorite and, plus, it looks extra spooky.
Padron: It is impossible to have too many of these. We eat these like everyone else does - by dry sauteing and then dousing with good olive oil and some sea salt. We've thought of eating them some other way, but whatever. 
Corno di Toro (sweet): WE'RE SO STOKED FOR THIS SWEET PEPPER. We grew it last year and couldn't get enough. Sweetest, reddest, hugest - it's a total winner. 
Netted pepper

Tomatoes (Solanaceae)

Now: Getting settled in the soil
Next: Putting on a little height

To do: Make sure they're caged and getting infrequent but deep watering (we like 30 mins, 3 days/week unless it rains
Keep some good organic fertilizer or worm castings handy so that when they start to set flowers, you can give them a side dressing of fertilizer so that they have the food to make more flowers and then FRUIT.
How to side dress: Dig a shallow trench near the plant's base (but not too close - you don't want to damage the roots or main stem), add the recommended amount (per the bag) of fertilizer, cover with soil and water in well.
Tomatoes we always grow and love:
Jaune Flamme: We pledged our undying love to this tomato a few years ago when we first tried it out in the Test Garden. We love it so much that we made a movie out of it.
Better Boy: Our most reliable fresh and canning tomato that reliably gives us 50 pounds of fruit per plant every year. Love this guy. 
Better Boy tomato

Thursday, January 1, 2015

Coaching for January

So, who's stoked for the spring garden season to begin? If you're frantically waving your hand around, you're in luck because it has begun!

No, really.


And if you're planning to grow crops like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or anything from seed that says "Sow indoors" on the packet, your time is here to get your seeds ordered and your indoor space set up for seed starting.





Each type of vegetable has its own set of rules for getting growing and some of them have a bit more wiggle room with those rules. Here's a list of the most popular homegrown vegetables and how to start them from seed so that you actually end up with the vegetables that you want. 

FYI: We're using the last frost date of March 1 to determine when to start the seeds in NorCal.

A list of equipment for starting seeds indoors is at the end, so just keep a readin'. 

Basil
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil lightly covered with soil or start indoors 3-4 weeks prior to transplanting outdoors by surface sowing (don't cover) and keeping mo-ist

When to start: 2/1 indoors, after 3/1 outdoors 
What to expect: Germination in 5-10 days

Beans (Pole)    How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 1" deep, 3 seeds per pole
When to start: End of February or after soil temps have exceeded 60 degrees, so after it's been 60 degrees during the day for a week or more 
What to expect: Germination in 3-7 days. Climbing the trellis within a month of germination.
  
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 1/2" deep, 3-4 seeds/inch, no need to thin
When to start: After soil temps have exceeded 45 degrees. So, like, whenever you want in NorCal.
What to expect: Germination 7 days, young greens in 2 weeks
  
Carrots
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, lightly covered with soil, 30 seeds/ft, DO NOT LET SEEDS DRY OUT
When to start: End of February or after soil temps have exceeded 60 degrees, so after it's been 60 degrees during the day for a week or more 
What to expect: If moisture is kept consistent and temperatures warm, germination within 1-3 weeks (yes, they take forever to germinate)

Corn
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 1" deep, 1 seed/hole, in blocks of 4 rows (for pollination to occur)
When to start: End of March or after soil temps have exceeded 65 degrees, so after it's been 65 degrees during the day for a week or more 
What to expect: Germination in 7-14 days

Cucumbers
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 1" deep, 4-6 seeds per mounded hill
When to start: End of February or after soil temps have exceeded 60 degrees, so after it's been 60 degrees during the day for a week or more  
What to expect: Germination in 7-14 days

Eggplant
How to sow: Start indoors with bottom heat and supplemental light to 12 hours/day, 1/4" deep, 1 seed/cell
When to start: 1/11 or 8-10 weeks before last frost
What to expect: Germination in 10-21 days

Kale
How to sow: Direct in the garden, lightly covered with soil to 1/4"
When to start: Early spring for a spring/summer crop
What to expect: Germination in 10-21 days

Lettuce
How to sow: Direct in the garden, lightly covered with soil to 1/4" according to the depth indicated on the package
When to start: After February 1, while temperatures are still cool
What to expect: Germination in 7-10 days

Melons
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 1/2" deep, 4-6 seeds per mounded hill
When to start: End of February or after soil temps have exceeded 60 degrees, so after it's been 60 degrees during the day for a week or more 
What to expect: Germination in 7-10 days

Peas
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 2" deep, 6" apart
When to start: Early spring for a spring/summer crop
What to expect: Germination in 7-14 days

Peppers
How to sow: Start indoors with bottom heat and supplemental light to 12 hours/day, 1/4" deep, 1 seed/cell
When to start: 1/11 or 8-10 weeks before last frost
What to expect: Germination in 10-21 days

Squash
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 1/2" deep, 1-2 seeds every 3'
When to start: End of February or after soil temps have exceeded 60 degrees, so after it's been 60 degrees during the day for a week or more 
What to expect: Germination in 10-14 days

Tomatoes 
How to sow: Start indoors with bottom heat and supplemental light to 12 hours/day, 1/4" deep, 1-2 seeds/cell
When to start: 1/25 or 8-10 weeks before last frost
What to expect: Germination in 7-10 days
  
Seed starting equipment for indoor growing
Bottom heat: Heat mats
Trays: 11x22 tray
Flats: 72 cell flat
Grow lights: 4' fixture
Soilless mix: Seed starter mix

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

The deal with companion planting

So, good call all you Facebooking Indie Farmers, on picking companion planting for today's blog post.

Cucumbers and nasturtium - they make the cutest couple

Companion planting is one of those topics that gets tossed around in gardeny circles and, like one of you said, brings with it some measure of "wizardry". And while wizardry is cool because it implies that there are awesome results involved, it also comes with a heavy dose of mystery and mystery is not helpful when you're trying to do something that produces an actual result.

We want to dispel mystery when it comes to vegetable gardening because we want you to grow lots of food and mystery does not put tomatoes on the vine, so to speak. So, let's keep the awesome results of companion planting and ditch the mysterious whimsy that can plague this useful practice.

We're not really into whimsy, is what I'm saying, but we are REALLY into growing food. So, there you go.

Why are we even doing this?
It's not because we like to make our lives complicated, that's for sure. It's also not because we think the vegetable garden needs prettying up. It's because we want to grow a lot of food and this is one thing we can do to help that along.

We use companion planting for a few main reasons:
  1. To repel insect pests
  2. To attract beneficials
  3. To create some kind of helpful environment for your crops to grow
The most famous beneficial insect - The Aphid Monster, aka - ladybeetle.

You'll get other benefits from companion planting, like pretty scenery or cut flowers for bouquets, but if you want to focus on prettying up a space or filling your fancy vases, take your butt over to the perennial landscaping and wave your herbaceous paintbrush around where it'll be most useful. The vegetable garden is for growing vegetables.

How do we even do this?
One way to approach companion planting, and the way we do it, is to look at the crops we're growing and figure out what those crops need that a companion plant can give them.

So, in the case of cucumbers and other cucurbits, for example, we want to repel the marauding advances of the sap sucking cucumber beetle. You can use a row cover over the plants to keep the beetles from connecting with the plants until they start to flower and/or you can plant nasturtium which grow a lofty semi-dense cover of foliage and flowers around your cucumbers.

Nasturtium and cucumbers - the early days

The nasturtium flowers look a lot like cucurbit flowers (particularly the yellow ones), which is one reason this may be effective, but the plants give shelter to beneficial spiders and other predators, keep the plants from stressing due to excessive heat and evaporation, and create a physical obstacle for cucumber beetles, which may be other reasons for its awesomeness.

Bonus - Nasturtium just happens to have edible flowers and look great in cut flower bouquets, so...score.


What about tomatoes? Don't we all want as many tomatoes as possible? Yes. The answer is yes. This is one reason that we plant basil around our tomatoes. Some studies show that when basil is planted around tomatoes to the tune of one basil plant every 10 inches or so, you can increase tomato yields by up to 20%, but you still need to water, feed and care for your tomato plants to keep them healthy.

Tomatoes and basil (...and nasturtium because it goes everywhere. In a good way.)

If you want to repel the monstrous chewing power of the tomato hornworm, marigolds can attract the small but mighty brachonid wasp that will parasitize and kill tomato hornworms. Which makes up for the fact that marigolds are hideous.

That's right - I just came right out and said it - they're ugly. I wouldn't plant marigolds unless I knew they did good things in the garden, which they do A LOT, so there.

The kids used to beat me up in school, but now they're all jealous of my celebrity.

Does your lettuce always bolt before you have other gardeny stuff to make salad? That's because it doesn't like the heat that your other salad crops might like and it would appreciate some shade, already. So give it some.

Plant a trellis or tepee of pole beans over your lettuce to shade it from the afternoon sun's scorchy rays. The lettuce is a light feeder, so won't deplete the soil's nutrients and beans are a nitrogen fixer, so a pairing like this actually leaves your soil in better condition than it was in to begin with. Good times.

Pole beans and lettuce - a power couple.

So, when you're looking for good companions for your vegetable crops, figure out what you're trying to repel, attract or create with your companion planting and then find a companion plant that does that thing.

No whimsical planting because oh that looks pretty there or oh I've run out of places to plant cut flowers so I'll just stick them right here oh yes that's fine, OK?

Now, go grow some food.

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Beans go boom


I've always liked growing beans.

They aren't bothered by much in the way of pests, they're good for the soil (they fix it with nitrogen), they produce a sometimes overwhelming reliable crop and they cover a structure like it's nobody's business.


And a covered structure in a garden can be a really good thing if you don't have a lot of growing space, want to grow both cooler weather and warmer weather crops and tend to have crops that overlap seasons.



Pole beans are perfect for all of these scenarios.

We really like Fortex pole beans because they're a thinner filet bean that tends to get longer rather than fatter if left on the poles a little too long. And, let's be clear, these things grow and produce fast, so plan to be out picking them every day or be prepared to find some big boys dangling off of those vines.


But since they grow fast and have a pretty long garden life (planted in mid-spring, they'll grow until fall), they can be put in once the days start to warm up a bit and the shade from their scary fast growing vines can protect those early spring crops that don't so much love the warming temperatures.


Like, say, lettuce for instance.

Pole bean seeds are also really easy to save for following seasons. Just leave them on the vines until they're dry and the seeds are rattling around in the pods like weird shaped maracas and then shuck the pods and save the beans in a breathable container (a paper bag or envelope works pretty well) for a few months until no moisture remains. After that they can be stored in a jar or plastic bag without worrying about any moisture fouling up the works.



In the spring time, like right about now, put a few between two sheets of a moistened paper towel on a plate in your kitchen for a few days and, while keeping that paper towel wet, watch for them to sprout.

I think this is where the idea for a mace came from.

 
Once they've sprouted, toss any that didn't sprout and then head out to your garden fence, trellis or tepee to get them planted.

Poke a hole in your loamy garden soil about two knuckles deep and drop the sprouted seed into the hole, root down.


Cover with soil, water thoroughly and then wait for the seedling to emerge.


After that, well, ready your harvest baskets because...

Beans go BOOM