Showing posts with label Lettuce. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lettuce. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Coaching for April

Spring is SO ON!
 The Test Garden is nearly planted for the warm weather, the poppy field is blooming and we're positively drunk with Spring around here.
Plus, the bees are extra busy which is so YAY!
So this coaching update is ALL SPRING ALL THE TIME with a Spring Must Do section to lead us off and updates on all of your warm weather crops.
Spring Must-Dos
#1 MUST DO: Soil Prep
If I catch you skipping this step, I will spank your buns with my favorite trowel. And not just because that trowel is perfect for spanking, but because your soil needs you right now!

I know that all you want to do is race out to that garden and start slamming plants in the ground. I DO, TOO. But resist the urge to skip prepping your soil because this is the #1 way to make sure that you will get the healthiest, most productive, most GIANT FRUIT PRODUCING crops this warm weather season.
#2 MUST DO: Garden prep
Drag out those garden structures (bean trellises, tomato cages, cucumber and melon fencing, etc) and make sure they're in good order, make sure you're stocked with good organic fertilizer like worm castings or storebought organic fertilizer and get those garden tools working.
#3 Must do: Plant. Finally.
Plant to plan - If you already have a crop rotation plan in place, you're awesome. Follow it.

If not, plant this year's crops somewhere new - So, if you had tomatoes in one spot last year, don't plant tomatoes (or any plant from the nightshade family) there this year. Even better would be to avoid planting anything from that family in that spot for the next 3-5 years, but we're reasonable. Keep track of where you plant what so that next year this is an easier process. 

#4 BONUS: Record your glory
This is a bonus in the truest sense of the word because recording and tracking your harvests throughout the season rewards you in a billion ways. Or, maybe a hundred. Or ten. Whatever - it's more than one.

Like, you'll know how long it takes you to go through your soil amendments, what crops are worth growing vs buying locally, how much of a yield you can expect from each crop and - the best bonus ever - the value of the crops you're growing.

For instance - I know that I got 240 pounds of produce out of the warm weather Test Garden (which included 107 pounds of tomatoes) at a value of $658.12.

Do you know what your garden did last summer? You could.

Make a copy of this free online spreadsheet and get started tracking your harvests this year and see if you don't love it. 

Beans (Fabaceae)

Now: Grabbing those lines
Next: CLIMBING TO THE SKY AND BEYOND
  
To do: Dust the area around the plants with diotomaceaous earth so that critters don't chew the stems to nubs.
Some varieties we like:
Rattlesnake pole beans: Good fresh as string beans or whole beans, frozen or as dried beans. Plus - purple speckles! Cuteness!
Fortex pole beans: Our standby pole bean that stays tender and slim in its pod for way longer than other pole beans we've tried (like Blue Lake and Kentucky Wonder) that get huge and fat and tough. Plus the seed is wicked easy to save and grow again next year.
Silver Cloud Cannellini bush beans: This was an experiment last year that we thought we'd tired of until we had some of these dried beans over the winter and then HOLY MUTHER OF BEANS THESE ARE AWESOME and the big jar of beans from our summer harvests disappeared. So, we're growing them again. For more awesomeness. Also good as a fresh shelled bean - fun.


Blue Coco beans
  



Now: Sow your new crops

Next:
 Keep your eye to the soil for germination

To do: Keep that soil mo-ist.
Carrots, especially, take FOREVER to germinate and they need to stay evenly mo-ist in the soil as they're getting ready FINALLY ALREADY to germinate. So, for the 20 or so days while they're lingering in the soil being big fat teases, make sure their soil doesn't dry out. Otherwise, they'll just never appear and you'll be all BOO. 

Try covering your carrot growing space with cardboard (write your sowing date on the cardboard and the date 20 days after that date so that you know when to remove the cardboard) after sowing and watering in the seeds so that the soil can stay nice and mo-ist while the seeds germinate.
Here are a couple that we like:
Miami F1 Hybrid: Super sweet, consistently cylindrical with feathery strong tops and good storage qualities. As though any will make it to storage...pfffffffffffft.
Romance: Well, who doesn't need more romance in their lives, right? Kinda seems odd to find that in a carrot, but who are we to judge? Oh right, we're totally judging. These are supposed to "glow" orange and be perfectly sweet and glorious at 6 inches. Que romantic.
RIGHTEOUS (Miami F1) CARROT!

Cucumbers (Cucurbitaceae)


Now: True leaves (the first ones that look like real cucumber leaves. They'll have little serrated edges.)
 
Next: Transplanting into the garden or putting on their first tendrils
 
To do:  Sprinkle some diotomaceous earth around these guys to keep the nibblers at bay. Plant some nasturtium nearby for cucumber beetle repelling action.

We're always growing:
Lemon: These guys may not look like the cucumbers you're used to seeing at the store, but OH are they tasty. Nice mild and sweet flavor great for eating fresh, adding to gin cocktails (seasonal cocktails!) or pickling. 
National Pickling: This is our favorite variety of cucumber for pickling as gherkins (pick them when they're the size of your thumb) or whole dills when we find big ones hiding in the plants. SNEAKY HIDERS! They're back! 

Early spring greens (Asteraceae)


Now: They're germinating, alright.

Next: They'll start crowding up.

To do: Keep that soil mo-ist and thin them to 1 plant every 2-3". If you're growing a succession crop (a row every few weeks for greens that go on and on), sow a new row this week while you're thinning the row from two weeks ago. 

Greens we love:
Rocky Top Mix: We have a block of this in the Test Garden growing between the beans and below the trellis. When the sun starts to get hot, the beans will climb the trellis and shade the lettuce area just in time to cool the space and let the lettuce grow into summer. And because we can't get enough of spring greens, we usually plant a container or two that can be moved to the dinner table when it's ready for salads.
Box of salad greens nearly ready for dinner

Herbs & FlowersHerbsandFlowers
Cilantro (Apiaceae)
Has your cilantro germinated yet? If so, sow a new row so that you get a successive crop. 

Did you plant it from a seedling? Harvest it often (leaving the center leaves and stalks alone to continue growing) so that it doesn't go to flower (bolt) right a-fricken'-way.


Nasturtium (Tropaeolaceae)
It's time again for ALL NASTURTIUM ALL THE TIME until first frost that's waaaaaaaaaaaaaay off in, like, December or something. 

Grow the easiest starting, fastest growing, best cut flower making, best cucumber beetle repelling crop of all time (in NorCal anyway) in your garden this year. 

Just get your hands on some nasturtium seed and go nuts. Plant it around your cucurbitaceae crops (cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkins) to keep the stupid cucumber beetles (don't be fooled - these are NOT green ladybugs) away and you're set.

Marigolds (Tagetes patula)
These guys are your best defense against vegetable loving pests. Sow seed anywhere and everywhere and then, if you're not a big fan of their flowers (like yours truly), just appreciate the fact that they're keeping your garden safe all summer long with very little (aka NONE) attention. Plus - their petals can be added to salad, compound butters and all kinds of dishes to fancy them right up.
Nasturtium galore shading the roots of the Concord grapes

Onions (Amaryllidaceae)

 Now: Harvesting as bunching onions
Next: Harvesting as bulb onions

To do: If you can't possibly wait until your onions form full bulbs, you can harvest now as bunching onions. Just pull, rinse and enjoy. Or don't rinse - be a daredevil like that, you hippie.
Fertilize with a nitrogen fertilizer or worm casting tea every couple weeks until you see the actual onion-y looking bulb start to push its way through the surface of the soil. 
To harvest as full bulbs, feel the neck of the bulb (where the green tops and round bottoms join up) for a soft-ish spot. Squeeze here and, if it's bendy, bend the tops over. This will dry them out and then you can harvest the full bulbs when the tops are fully dry. 
Red baron onions

Peppers (Solanaceae)

Now: Getting settled in the soil
Next: Putting on a little height

To do: Make sure they're caged or netted and getting infrequent but deep watering (we like 30 mins, 3 days/week unless it rains).
Keep some good organic fertilizer or worm castings handy so that when they start to set flowers, you can give them a side dressing of fertilizer so that they have the food to make more flowers and then FRUIT.
How to side dress: Dig a shallow trench near the plant's base (but not too close - you don't want to damage the roots or main stem), add the recommended amount (per the bag) of fertilizer, cover with soil and water in well.
Peppers we love to grow:
Magnum Habanero:  It's orange and hot and makes the crazy best margaritas ever. Grow it you love and hate yourself.
Purple Jalapeno: Purple jalapenos in salsa is a nice way to change up an old favorite and, plus, it looks extra spooky.
Padron: It is impossible to have too many of these. We eat these like everyone else does - by dry sauteing and then dousing with good olive oil and some sea salt. We've thought of eating them some other way, but whatever. 
Corno di Toro (sweet): WE'RE SO STOKED FOR THIS SWEET PEPPER. We grew it last year and couldn't get enough. Sweetest, reddest, hugest - it's a total winner. 
Netted pepper

Tomatoes (Solanaceae)

Now: Getting settled in the soil
Next: Putting on a little height

To do: Make sure they're caged and getting infrequent but deep watering (we like 30 mins, 3 days/week unless it rains
Keep some good organic fertilizer or worm castings handy so that when they start to set flowers, you can give them a side dressing of fertilizer so that they have the food to make more flowers and then FRUIT.
How to side dress: Dig a shallow trench near the plant's base (but not too close - you don't want to damage the roots or main stem), add the recommended amount (per the bag) of fertilizer, cover with soil and water in well.
Tomatoes we always grow and love:
Jaune Flamme: We pledged our undying love to this tomato a few years ago when we first tried it out in the Test Garden. We love it so much that we made a movie out of it.
Better Boy: Our most reliable fresh and canning tomato that reliably gives us 50 pounds of fruit per plant every year. Love this guy. 
Better Boy tomato

Sunday, March 1, 2015

Coaching for March

Know what's next week? 

Only the biggest day of our year, Indie Farmers - The First Day of Spring

So, let's get you ready for another badass growing season starting with early spring crops that are such tasty little teases before the big boom shaka laka of summertime crops.

And, just in case you haven't gotten your spring garden prep done yet (ahem! But also - no judging) you can find everything you need to prep for spring in the PREP FOR SPRING STAT section below.

PREP FOR SPRING STAT Guide      
Cover crops 
It's time to knock them down, cut them off at soil level, chop them up into tiny pieces and leave them to turn into organic matter for your summer garden.

Here's all the hows and whys and whens for you cover croppers (love you!).

Garden prep
Plan your garden, start a garden tracker (seriously! Then you'll know what really works!), plant companion plants, start your seeds just right, test and amend your soil - everything we do to prep for the growing season is right here.

Early Spring crops
Plant these guys now by direct sow (just put the seeds right into your soil, no starting indoors all high maintenance and such) and have something fresh and green (or red) to eat in no time at all.

Shelling peas - Plant by St Patrick's Day for a crop before the temperatures rise.
Snow peas - Sow these when you plant your shelling peas and then eat them straight from the vine.
Lettuce - Set aside a small area of your garden and sow a row every 2-3 weeks for a continuous harvest. Lettuce is also perfect for container gardening.
Radishes - Sow rows of radishes between your lettuce for a mini salad bar. Harvest in just a few weeks.
Cilantro - Sow cilantro early to get a harvest before it bolts in the heat. 


Carrots (Apiaceae) & Roots   
Now: Sow your new crops
Next: Keep your eye to the soil for germination
To do: Keep that soil mo-ist.

Carrots, especially, take FOREVER to germinate and they need to stay evenly mo-ist in the soil as they're getting ready FINALLY ALREADY to germinate. So, for the 20 or so days while they're lingering in the soil being big fat teases, make sure their soil doesn't dry out. Otherwise, they'll just never appear and you'll be all BOO.

Here are a few of our favorite varieties for NorCal's warming spring soil:
Tonda di Parigi - Little fat sweet round carrots sold at basically every Paris farmers' market. We like them here in the good ol' USofA, too.
Baby Little Finger -  I'm not one for eating baby fingers, but these carrots could convert me. No. That's gross. Just grow these tasty little fingerling sized carrots and call it good.

Early spring greens (Asteraceae)     
Now: Sow your new crops
Next: Keep your eye to the soil for germination
To do: Keep that soil mo-ist.

Lettuce and other spring greens germinate SUPAH fast, so you don't have to be all stalker-y with your eyeballs on that soil 24/7 forever like you do with carrots.

Just sow your seed, keep it moist and wait a few days. You'll have sweet little sproutlings coming up in no time and then BOOM! salad.

Set aside a 4'x4' block in your garden and sow a new row every week for greens that go on and on until the heat sets in.

A few lettuces we really like:
Henderson's Black Seed: Sounds kinda weird and not like lettuce, but it's a bulletproof winner in the spring garden. Big lime green leaves with curly edges make spectacular salads and wraps. We always grow this. It's outstanding.
Lollo Rossa: If you're a sucker for red leaf lettuce, this is your gal. Another staple in the Test Garden, it's sweet, glossy and gorgeous for all lettuce-y dishes. You know, like salad.
Rocky Top Mix: If you can't decide between green, red, speckled, and oak leaf - this is your mix. It fills out a bed like nobody's business, so get ready to salad. We'll have a big block of this is the Test Garden, so check it out during the plant sale for a sneak peek.
 
Herbs & Flowers
Cilantro (Apiaceae)
Start a new crop of cilantro somewhere that it or another Apiaceae crop wasn't growing before.

If you want cilantro all spring and summer long, be ready to sow a new row of cilantro every week so that you can get some of the tender young leaves before it bolts (goes to flower).

Try setting aside a 2'x2' block and sowing one 2' row every week for 4 weeks. By the time you get to the 4th week, the first week will have produced its best leaves and you can pull the bolting plants and start a new row of cilantro there. Keep this up and you'll have cilantro all summer long.

Nasturtium (Tropaeolaceae)
You can grow the easiest starting, fastest growing, best cut flower making, best cucumber beetle repelling crop of all time (in NorCal anyway) in your garden this year.

Just get your hands on some nasturtium seed and go nuts. Plant it around your cucurbitaceae crops (cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkins) to keep the stupid cucumber beetles (don't be fooled - these are NOT green ladybugs) away and you're set.

Marigolds (Tagetes patula)

These guys are your best defense against vegetable loving pests. Sow seed anywhere and everywhere and then, if you're not a big fan of their flowers like yours truly, just appreciate the fact that they're keeping your garden safe all summer long with very little (aka NONE) attention. You can also eat the petals and the longer you keep marigolds planted in your garden, the stronger their pest repelling powers become.

Kale (Brassicaceae)   
Now: Bolting!
Next: Resow this in a new not-previously-Brassicaceae spot for spring harvests.
To do: Cut it back and move on with your life OR re sow in a new not-previously-Brassicaceae spot for spring harvests.

We really like:
Red Russian: Red ribbed and gorgeous tasty kale that's great for cooking
Lacinato (Dinosaur): Our favorite for kale salad by far. Plus, aphids can't hide as easily in the broad leaves as they can in the super curly kale, which is nice.

Onions (Amaryllidaceae)   
Now: Harvesting as bunching onions
Next: Harvesting as bulb onions or donezo
To do: If you can't possibly wait until your onions form full bulbs, you can harvest now as bunching onions. Just pull, rinse and enjoy. Or don't rinse - be a daredevil like that, you hippie.

Fertilize with a nitrogen fertilizer or worm casting tea every couple weeks until you see the actual onion-y looking bulb start to push its way through the surface of the soil.

Peas
Now: Germinating, sending up first leaves, reaching out for that first line
Next: Germinating, sending up first leaves, reaching out for that first line
To do:  If you haven't sown your peas yet - get to it! We clearly have a limited period of cool weather before summer sidles up and takes over, so pre-germinate those pea seeds indoors between wet paper towels and then plant the seeds that germinate. 2 months later - peas!

If you're late to the game, try Dakota peas that can take the heat and grow FAST.

Thursday, January 1, 2015

Coaching for January

So, who's stoked for the spring garden season to begin? If you're frantically waving your hand around, you're in luck because it has begun!

No, really.


And if you're planning to grow crops like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or anything from seed that says "Sow indoors" on the packet, your time is here to get your seeds ordered and your indoor space set up for seed starting.





Each type of vegetable has its own set of rules for getting growing and some of them have a bit more wiggle room with those rules. Here's a list of the most popular homegrown vegetables and how to start them from seed so that you actually end up with the vegetables that you want. 

FYI: We're using the last frost date of March 1 to determine when to start the seeds in NorCal.

A list of equipment for starting seeds indoors is at the end, so just keep a readin'. 

Basil
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil lightly covered with soil or start indoors 3-4 weeks prior to transplanting outdoors by surface sowing (don't cover) and keeping mo-ist

When to start: 2/1 indoors, after 3/1 outdoors 
What to expect: Germination in 5-10 days

Beans (Pole)    How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 1" deep, 3 seeds per pole
When to start: End of February or after soil temps have exceeded 60 degrees, so after it's been 60 degrees during the day for a week or more 
What to expect: Germination in 3-7 days. Climbing the trellis within a month of germination.
  
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 1/2" deep, 3-4 seeds/inch, no need to thin
When to start: After soil temps have exceeded 45 degrees. So, like, whenever you want in NorCal.
What to expect: Germination 7 days, young greens in 2 weeks
  
Carrots
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, lightly covered with soil, 30 seeds/ft, DO NOT LET SEEDS DRY OUT
When to start: End of February or after soil temps have exceeded 60 degrees, so after it's been 60 degrees during the day for a week or more 
What to expect: If moisture is kept consistent and temperatures warm, germination within 1-3 weeks (yes, they take forever to germinate)

Corn
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 1" deep, 1 seed/hole, in blocks of 4 rows (for pollination to occur)
When to start: End of March or after soil temps have exceeded 65 degrees, so after it's been 65 degrees during the day for a week or more 
What to expect: Germination in 7-14 days

Cucumbers
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 1" deep, 4-6 seeds per mounded hill
When to start: End of February or after soil temps have exceeded 60 degrees, so after it's been 60 degrees during the day for a week or more  
What to expect: Germination in 7-14 days

Eggplant
How to sow: Start indoors with bottom heat and supplemental light to 12 hours/day, 1/4" deep, 1 seed/cell
When to start: 1/11 or 8-10 weeks before last frost
What to expect: Germination in 10-21 days

Kale
How to sow: Direct in the garden, lightly covered with soil to 1/4"
When to start: Early spring for a spring/summer crop
What to expect: Germination in 10-21 days

Lettuce
How to sow: Direct in the garden, lightly covered with soil to 1/4" according to the depth indicated on the package
When to start: After February 1, while temperatures are still cool
What to expect: Germination in 7-10 days

Melons
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 1/2" deep, 4-6 seeds per mounded hill
When to start: End of February or after soil temps have exceeded 60 degrees, so after it's been 60 degrees during the day for a week or more 
What to expect: Germination in 7-10 days

Peas
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 2" deep, 6" apart
When to start: Early spring for a spring/summer crop
What to expect: Germination in 7-14 days

Peppers
How to sow: Start indoors with bottom heat and supplemental light to 12 hours/day, 1/4" deep, 1 seed/cell
When to start: 1/11 or 8-10 weeks before last frost
What to expect: Germination in 10-21 days

Squash
How to sow: Direct in the garden soil, 1/2" deep, 1-2 seeds every 3'
When to start: End of February or after soil temps have exceeded 60 degrees, so after it's been 60 degrees during the day for a week or more 
What to expect: Germination in 10-14 days

Tomatoes 
How to sow: Start indoors with bottom heat and supplemental light to 12 hours/day, 1/4" deep, 1-2 seeds/cell
When to start: 1/25 or 8-10 weeks before last frost
What to expect: Germination in 7-10 days
  
Seed starting equipment for indoor growing
Bottom heat: Heat mats
Trays: 11x22 tray
Flats: 72 cell flat
Grow lights: 4' fixture
Soilless mix: Seed starter mix

Wednesday, June 25, 2014

The summer garden's top 3 OH NOs and their solutions

About this time of year, we start getting frantic OH NO emails from clients whose gardens are doing crazy things and, in some cases, nothing at all.

There's a lot of OH NOing and WHAT THE HELL DO I DOing and general freaking out and that is AOK.

We're on the case.

Here are the top 3 summer garden OH NOs and what you can do to sort them out. Without freaking out. Or...with minimal freaking out.

Seeds don't germinate

This is our woe this summer, again, because sometimes we can't learn from our previous season's mistakes. Specifically, that we can't keep the hot San Jose soil mo-ist enough long enough for forever-taking seeds like carrots to germinate.

Um...carrots? Helloooo?
Some measures you can take to make sure you have good germination rates for direct sown crops (where you put the seed right in your garden soil rather than starting it indoors first) is to know the crop's ideal sowing and germination conditions (in the case of carrots it's 1/4" seed depth, soil temps of 55-80 degrees, even water, consistent moisture, loamy soil with limited soil crusting) and follow them to the letter.

These tiny carrot seeds are the forever-takingest (20 days to germinate) of the direct sown seeds.

You can find this information on your seed packets and it's mightily helpful in getting a good stand (full germination of your crop in the garden) and final product.

If you have poor germination rate or none at all (like our poor carrots), you can adjust your conditions to suit the crop and resow, choose another crop to grow in the conditions that you DO have or, like we'll be doing, just let your nearby crops take over (AKA - Do nothing).

We'll try this again in the fall.

Blossoms fall off

When the temps spike, I start to get a lot of emails and pings from Indie Farmers worried about the blossoms falling off of their tomatoes.

In this case, some set fruit and some dropped off.

I get the same emails and pings when we have a super windy spell or it suddenly gets cold or a black cat crosses under a ladder nearby.

And that's all because of stress. When tomatoes get stressed - by temperatures that move outside of their ideal range (70-85 degrees), wind tossing around their leaves and branches, air pollution, lack of nutrients, pest attack, etc - they go into survival mode, just like all plants do.

And survival mode in plants looks like blossoms dropping, slowing of growth, fruit that doesn't ripen - that kind of thing. Because the plant is conserving energy to survive and the creation of flowers, setting of fruit on those flowers and ripening of fruit are the most energy consuming of the plant's activities.

So, the key to YOU surviving the plant's survival mode is to help the plant along. Look at the conditions the plant is experiencing and help it out.

If it's been really windy, put up a wind break around your plants, stake their branches so they don't break in the wind, or (if it's in a pot) move it to an area that's more protected.

The staking and protected space keeps this wee tomato plant from getting wrecked.

If it's been really hot, give your plant some afternoon shade with shade cloth, make sure you're watering deeply in the cool morning hours and limit the time you spend working the plants to the cooler morning hours.

Once conditions return to those that the plant likes best, it will go back to setting flowers and fruit and ripening that fruit. Healthy plants also fight off pests much more effectively and don't attract pests like sickly plants do.


Everything bolts super fast

When conditions move outside the range that your plants prefer (in the case of summer, it gets HOT), you'll notice your crops like lettuce, basil, cilantro and broccoli will start to send up tall stalks that eventually flower and set seed.

Look familiar? Oh, cilantro.

This is, again, your crop's way of surviving by producing the next generation (AKA - seed) and the heat is also a signal to cool season crops that it's time to procreate and survive.

Some crops like basil can be pinched to prevent bolting, but other crops like lettuce and cilantro will become bitter and tough even if you do prune off their flowering stalks.

Pinch me! Pinch me! Naughty.

For the cooler crops that you do want to grow during the hot summer months, try moving them to an area that gets afternoon shade or GIVE them afternoon shade where they're growing already, sow seed on a tighter schedule (every week rather than every other week) and harvest regularly to keep them in production mode.

Lettuce might like to grow in the shade of your bean tipi. Just sayin'.