The summer garden's top 3 OH NOs and their solutions

About this time of year, we start getting frantic OH NO emails from clients whose gardens are doing crazy things and, in some cases, nothing at all.

There's a lot of OH NOing and WHAT THE HELL DO I DOing and general freaking out and that is AOK.

We're on the case.

Here are the top 3 summer garden OH NOs and what you can do to sort them out. Without freaking out. Or...with minimal freaking out.

Seeds don't germinate

This is our woe this summer, again, because sometimes we can't learn from our previous season's mistakes. Specifically, that we can't keep the hot San Jose soil mo-ist enough long enough for forever-taking seeds like carrots to germinate.

Um...carrots? Helloooo?

Some measures you can take to make sure you have good germination rates for direct sown crops (where you put the seed right in your garden soil rather than starting it indoors first) is to know the crop's ideal sowing and germination conditions (in the case of carrots it's 1/4" seed depth, soil temps of 55-80 degrees, even water, consistent moisture, loamy soil with limited soil crusting) and follow them to the letter.

These tiny carrot seeds are the forever-takingest (20 days to germinate) of the direct sown seeds.

You can find this information on your seed packets and it's mightily helpful in getting a good stand (full germination of your crop in the garden) and final product.

If you have poor germination rate or none at all (like our poor carrots), you can adjust your conditions to suit the crop and resow, choose another crop to grow in the conditions that you DO have or, like we'll be doing, just let your nearby crops take over (AKA - Do nothing).

We'll try this again in the fall.

Blossoms fall off

When the temps spike, I start to get a lot of emails and pings from Indie Farmers worried about the blossoms falling off of their tomatoes.

In this case, some set fruit and some dropped off.

I get the same emails and pings when we have a super windy spell or it suddenly gets cold or a black cat crosses under a ladder nearby.

And that's all because of stress. When tomatoes get stressed - by temperatures that move outside of their ideal range (70-85 degrees), wind tossing around their leaves and branches, air pollution, lack of nutrients, pest attack, etc - they go into survival mode, just like all plants do.

And survival mode in plants looks like blossoms dropping, slowing of growth, fruit that doesn't ripen - that kind of thing. Because the plant is conserving energy to survive and the creation of flowers, setting of fruit on those flowers and ripening of fruit are the most energy consuming of the plant's activities.

So, the key to YOU surviving the plant's survival mode is to help the plant along. Look at the conditions the plant is experiencing and help it out.

If it's been really windy, put up a wind break around your plants, stake their branches so they don't break in the wind, or (if it's in a pot) move it to an area that's more protected.

The staking and protected space keeps this wee tomato plant from getting wrecked.

If it's been really hot, give your plant some afternoon shade with shade cloth, make sure you're watering deeply in the cool morning hours and limit the time you spend working the plants to the cooler morning hours.

Once conditions return to those that the plant likes best, it will go back to setting flowers and fruit and ripening that fruit. Healthy plants also fight off pests much more effectively and don't attract pests like sickly plants do.

Everything bolts super fast

When conditions move outside the range that your plants prefer (in the case of summer, it gets HOT), you'll notice your crops like lettuce, basil, cilantro and broccoli will start to send up tall stalks that eventually flower and set seed.

Look familiar? Oh, cilantro.

This is, again, your crop's way of surviving by producing the next generation (AKA - seed) and the heat is also a signal to cool season crops that it's time to procreate and survive.

Some crops like basil can be pinched to prevent bolting, but other crops like lettuce and cilantro will become bitter and tough even if you do prune off their flowering stalks.

Pinch me! Pinch me! Naughty.

For the cooler crops that you do want to grow during the hot summer months, try moving them to an area that gets afternoon shade or GIVE them afternoon shade where they're growing already, sow seed on a tighter schedule (every week rather than every other week) and harvest regularly to keep them in production mode.

Lettuce might like to grow in the shade of your bean tipi. Just sayin'.