Black Brandywine and Better Boy tomatoes. A fine pairing. |
The extra time before planting cover crops and winter food crops is also good because it gives us a chance to start some of our winter crops indoors so that we can plant stronger transplants into the winter garden rather than vulnerable seeds that can get mowed down by a single hungry pest.
If you've ever put seeds in the ground in spring and then watched as their nubile little stems emerge and then get summarily gnawed to a nub by a mysterious bug under the cover of darkness, you know the pain all too well.
Churchill Brussels sprout starts. Be strong, boys! |
Other crops are planted so broadly by seed that a few going down the gullets of garden creatures isn't that bad.
Pacific Gold Mustard seeds germinating |
Before planting anything, we remove the summer crops, dig in a 2" layer of finished compost and treat the bed with a dose of neem oil to smother overwintering pests and their eggs.
Then we get down to the business of fall -
Pacific Gold Mustard - sown direct in raised beds for a winter food crop and spring green manure + pest control for next year's tomatoes
Buckwheat - sown direct in a raised bed for green manure and weed control
Fava beans - sown direct in a raised bed for green manure and nitrogen fixing
Brussels sprouts - transplants installed in one half of a raised bed for a late fall for winter food crop
Dill - sown direct in a raised bed between Brussels sprouts for a winter food crop and to repel pests from the Brussels sprouts
Garlic - sown from seed in one half of a raised bed for a 2013 summer crop and to repel pests and improve the flavor of Brussels sprouts
We still have summer crops saying their final goodbyes in a few spots, but once the temps drop consistently below 70 degrees, they'll come out and the remaining cool season plants will go in.
Thus completing another summer season and starting a fall and winter season anew.
Bam.
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